Tulou are a “must see” when you come to Fujian, we were told.  Thanks to Mr. Peter Huang, one of our hosts in Xiamen, also director of Xiamen Children’s Library, for going out of his way to make this wish came true for us.

 

Eryilou 二宜樓

There are 46 Tulou sites in Fujian Province. The one we visited is called “Eryilou” 二宜樓, part of the Dadi Tulou cluster in Hua-an County. It’s unlike any building I’d seen. Built between 1740-1770, the round, impressive two ring-structure was designed as a community defense against bandits in the mountainous area.  It has no window except on the 4th floor.  The “Chiang” clan has lived there for several hundred years although the number has dwindled down from six hundreds in the heyday to about 100 now. Eryilou is still in use to this day.

Inside of Eryilou Tulou

Wall painting

Unlike some other tulou, Eryilou has a back corridor adjacent to the wall instead of a front corridor. An interesting characteristic is that each household partition has its own set of staircases not share by other families.

These earth houses were made by compacting earth, mixed with stone, bamboo, wood and even red sugar and rice.  Some elaborate paintings are found in the interior in contrast to the fortified-looking exterior.

 

Fujian Tulou -- Eryilou

A pair of wells sat in the communal courtyard and a lady was picking tea leaves nearby when we walked in.  There were a few souvenir stands (most of us wanted to take something home too!) but overall, Eryilou retains its rural feel despite opening up to tourists.  The UNESCO World Heritage Site recognition awarded to Fujian Tulou is well deserved given its unique architectural style, long history and practical functionality.

 

Surroundings of Eryilou